I’ve lived in or near the Southwest most of my life. Over the years we have crossed Route 66 numerous times. Not as much in New Mexico, but frequently in Arizona. What we found while traversing these two states is that I-40 closely parallels the old road. Much of the time, we were only a few yards away from the interstate, usually separated by a shallow ditch and sometimes a barbed wire fence. If you didn’t know otherwise, you would think there was a long frontage road passing through the desert along the interstate. The major difference is where the interstate bypassed small towns for the sake of efficiency. At these stretches, Route 66 usually veered away to eventually become the main street through town. Some towns managed to hang on over the years, while others died away. The main variation between the Midwest Route 66 and the Southwest Route 66 are that the stretches between communities become longer. In the Midwest, it wasn’t uncommon to pass through a community every 6-8 miles. Across New Mexico and Arizona, the intervals stretch from 20-30 miles.
Walnut Creek National Monument, near Flagstaff, Arizona
We learned that the earliest roads across the country usually followed the railways. Towns were built to provide support for steam engines that needed to resupply water every ten miles. Some train stops evolved and thrived while others faded away. Life in the desert region has always been tenuous. When I read Grapes of Wrath several months ago, I learned that crossing the desert was by far the hardest and longest part of the journey. Vehicles in those days were not equipped to manage the heat. Even today, parts of the old road are in disrepair, blown over by wind drifted sand, or subject to washout in the rainy season. There were parts of the road not well maintained, and we were advised to bypass them by taking the interstate.
The power of the earth to reclaim what man imposes on the land.
Even when we were directly side-by-side with the freeway only yards away, I enjoyed the slower pace of Route 66. Freeway speeds were usually 70-80 mph, while I only go a maximum speed of 60mph pulling our trailer. I had the road to myself for as far ahead as I could see, no one passing me and no one to slow me down. I didn’t feel obligated to focus on drivers around me and I could scan the landscape to the side. It was nice.
Wigwam Motel, Holbrook, Arizona
Our first overnight stop was in Tucumcari, New Mexico. Downtown Tucumcari continues to maintain a strong flavor of the old life. There are lots of motels, diners, and service stations, many still adorned with colorful neon signs. My favorite was the Blue Swallow Motel. We stayed over the weekend so we could do laundry and attend church on Sunday. While in town we visited two museums; one that had an awesome collection of dinosaur bones, and another that displayed a collection representing frontier life. It was rare for us to stay in one place two nights, and Tucumcari was a great town to have a break from the road.
Blue Swallow Motel, Tucumcari, New Mexico
We loved attending church each Sunday in a new town. The faces were different, but the doctrine remained the same. We always felt welcomed, that we were among our brothers and sisters. In Tucumcari that Sunday, the ward leadership was going through a reorganization. It was fun to watch a small ward adapt to the changes this brought about. The members were excited, and we witnessed how they pulled together to support a new bishopric.
Neon nightlife in Tucumcari, New Mexico
From Tucumcari we drove to Albuquerque by way of Santa Fe. Santa Fe had a short life span as part of Route 66, about ten years. After that, a shorter, more direct route was found to Albuquerque. We visited Pecos National Historic Park and walked among the ruins left behind by the ancient Sinagua culture. Once again, we had heavy rains as we descended into Albuquerque. We were late finding a place to stay that night and ended up at a Flying J truck stop. Thunderstorms passed by throughout the night.
Pecos National Historic Park
The next morning, we were off early and drove to Winslow, Arizona stopping at Petrified Forest National Park. In the earliest alignments of Route 66, the road passed through property now inside the park boundary. That road is no longer maintained, and little is left to see of it but a line of telephone poles across the desert. We enjoyed a few hikes in the park, and I photographed a lot of petrified wood from a forest now long gone.
Petrified Forest National Park
In Winslow, we stayed in the parking lot behind the visitors’ center. We were only a few blocks from the famous and iconic spot the Eagles sang of, “Standing on the corner in Winslow, Arizona”. We took a few obligatory tourist photos, and then I went back later in the evening to get a timed exposure when the streetlights came on. Once again, more rain.
I'm a-standin' on a corner in Winslow, Arizona. Such a fine sight to see.
From Winslow, we drove to Kingman where we had our second night in a hotel on this 2,500-mile adventure. It was time once again for a hot shower. One of my favorite passages on this long trek was the piece of road between Kingman and the small town of Oatman. I had read that it wasn’t recommended to take RV rigs over this stretch of road because of the steep grades and hairpin turns. Our trailer is small enough that I figured it was worth a try. It was a fantastic drive with little trouble. With all the rain, wildflowers were blooming in profusion. Even the Ocotillo was in full bloom. On the pass, we caught sight of the wild donkeys that inhabit this range. Oatman itself is a bit overly touristy, but the drive was breathtaking. Once over the Oatman Highway, it was a short drive to Needles, California, but that is the subject of the next blog post.
The Oatman Pass
Friends we met near Oatman, Arizona
Ocotillo in bloom near Oatman, Arizona